Gem-setting for jewelry.



PATENTED OCT. 9, 1906.

G. T. WITTSTEIN.

GEM SETTING FOR JEWELRY.

APPLICATION FILED NOV.. 29 1905.

WITNESSES INVENTO/i 6) mm 6% Q2 Gama M m WASHINGTON, nc.

UNITED STATES PA ENT OFFICE.

GEM-SETTING FOR JEWELRY.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Oct. 9, 1906.

Application filed November 29, 1905. Serial No- 289,594.

To all whmn it may concern.-

Be it known that I, CHARLES T.W1TTsTnIN, a citizen of the United States,residing at 79 Lincoln Park, Newark, county of Essex, and State of NewJersey, have invented a new and useful Gem-Setting for Jewelry, of whichthe following is a specification.

This invention relates to settings such as are used for stones or gemsof any kind upon rings, pins, or other jewelry; and the objects of theinvention are to secure a firmer and closer engagement of theholding-arms of the setting with the stone or gem, to enable said armsto be readily and quickly brought into their holding position, toaccurately predetermine the point of bending of such arms, to secure animproved appearance of the setting, and thus of the entire jewel, toeliminate recesses and projections upon the setting which tend toreceive dirt or catch upon clothing, to save time and labor in setting agem, and to obtain other advantages and re sults, as may be brought outin the following description.

The invention consists in the improved gem-setting for jewelry,substantially as will be hereinafter described, and finally set forth inthe claims.

Referring to the accompanying drawings, in which like numerals ofreference indicate corresponding parts in each of the several figures,Figure 1 is a side view of a portion of a finger-ring having a settingof my improved construction. Flg. 2 is an lnner face view of one of thearms of such a setting. Fig. 3 is an edge view of said arm. Figs. 4 and5"are an inner face view and an edge view, re'spec tively, of atwo-piece construction of the holding-arm. Fig. 6 is a view, partly insection, showing a gem and the engagement of a holding-arm therewith,and Fig. 7 is aside view of another form of holding-arms embodying myimproved construction, all said views being enlarged to illustrate theinvention more clearly.

In said drawings, 2 indicates the setting proper, which is formed fromsheet metal by stamping and pressing in any suitable manner and may beof any ordinary form providing holding-arms for a gem 1, although I haveshown in Figs. 16, inclusive, arms 3, which are unitedat their adjacentedges to a point near their tops and each arm being centrally open orapertured, as at 4. Obviously any other style of holding-arm could,however, be employed equally well, and it will be understood that thesetting proper, 2, is

united to the ring-band 5 or any other support in any manner common tothe art.

Each arm 3 is near its top and at its inner face transversely grooved orrecessed, as at 6, so that the lower wall of said groove forms ashoulder or bearing for the gem, and thus determines its position. Abovethe said groove 6 that portion of the inner face of the arm forming theupper wall of the groove is centrally cupped or recessed, as at 9, suchcupping being preferably done in stamping out the setting and providinga sunken or depressed portion entirely surrounded b marginal undisturbedportions of the face of the arm. It will be understood that this upperportion 8 of the arm above the groove 7 is adapted to be bent over thegirdle of the gem and lie flat upon the upper face of the gem. When thisis done, by reason of the cupped or recessed face of said holdingportion the edges of the same are sure to fit tightly against'thesurface of the stone. The result of this is not only a very neat andperfect appearance, but, furthermore, there is no opportunity foranything to catch under the edges of the holding arms, such as thethreads of clothing, or for dirt to accumulate there. A perfect contactof the holding-arm with the stone is thus by the construction describedquickly and easily secured by simplyfbending over the ends of the saidholding-arms. Furthermore, the pressure with which the holding-arms areclosed over upon the gem virtually seals the cavity or chamber 9, and byreason of the intimate contact of the edges of the cavity with thesmooth surface of the gem and the natural resiliency of the metal avacuum of suction is created when the setting-tool is removed whichtends to a more firm and secure holding of the gem.

The outer side or face of each arm 3, at

ing at the same time as the inner face of the arms, and all in oneoperation where the entire setting is 111 a single lntegral piece. Sometimes, however, the tips of the holding-arms which overlap the girdle ofthe stone are made of platinum, particularly in settings for diamonds,so as to be more inconspicuous against the white stone and to wearbetter and longer. In these cases I employ the construction shown inFigs. 4, 5, and 6, where 11 indicates an individual holding-arm of thebody portion of the setting, and 12 a platinum tip connected to saidbody portion, the connection preferably being by recessing the end ofthe arm, as at 13, and seating the tip therein and soldering it. Theopposite faces of said tip are then formed as has been above described,the inner face having the transverse groove 14, lower seat 15 for thegem 16, and upper portion 17, cupped, as at 18, and adapted to be bentover the girdle of the gem. The outer face of the tip is rounded, as at19, so that when the tip is bent into its final position it presents anoutwardly-globular effect, as shown in Figs. 1 and 6.

In Fig. 7 I have illustrated the application of my invention to asetting 21, having another form of arms 22, the extremities of said armsgrasping the gem 23, as above described, and'being outwardly convex, asat 24. Obviously therefore my invention is not limited to any particularform of arm. By the construction thus described not only is a very firmand secure holding of the gem obtained and at the same time apleasingappearance, but, furthermore, a seat or bearing for the gem isprovided which is finished and ready as it comes from the factory intothe jewelers hands to receive the gem and which thus accuratelypredetermines the position of the stone in the setting, preventingdetraotion from the beauty of the jewel through lack of experience orskill on the part of the jeweler. Moreover, the transverse groove orrecess 6 (or 14) fixes the point at which the tips of the arms will bendin closing them over upon the gem and insures a uniform and pleasingappearance of the said tips or extremities when closed over.

Having thus described the invention, what I claim as new is 1. Agem-setting having a holding-arm, having near its upper end and at itsinner face a shoulder or bearing for the stone, and

having above said bearing an end portion cupped at its inner face andadapted to be bent over upon the stone.

2. A gem-setting provided with a holdingarm having a transversereduction of thickness to predetermine the point of bending and abovesaid .reduction having an inner face with a central cupping ordepression surrounded by marginal undisturbed portions of the face, suchupper portion of the arm being thus adapted when bent over upon thestone to engage the same at the said margins around said cupping ordepression.

3. A gem-setting provided with a holdingarm having at its inner face andnear its extremity a transverse groove the lower wall of which forms aseat for the stone and the up per wall of which has a plane inner facewith a central cupping or depression surrounded by marginal undisturbedportions of the said plane face, the part of the arm above said groovebeing thus adapted to be bent over upon the stone to engage the same atthe said marginal portions of its face.

4. A gem-setting provided with a holdingarm having at its inner face andnear its extremity a transverse reduction of thickness forming a seatfor the stone, said reduced end of the arm above said seat having acentral portion displaced outwardly out of the plane of the arm andforming an outer swelling and an inner cupping or depression, the saidupper portion of the arm being adapted to be bent over upon the stone. I

5. A gemsetting having a holding-arm comprising a body portion recessedat its outer extremity, and a tip permanently seated in said recess,cupped at its inner face and adapted to be bent over upon the stone.

6. A gem-setting having a holding-arm comprising a body portion recessedat its outer end, and atip permanently seated in said recess, said tipforming at the lower part of its inner face a bearing for the stone andbeing cupped or hollowed at the upper part.

7. A gem-setting having a holoing arm comprising a body portion recessedat its outer end, and a tip permanently seated in said recess, said tipforming at the lower part of its inner face a bearing for the stone andbeing cupped or hollowed at the upper part, the outer face of the tipbeing convexly rounded.

8. A gem-setting having a holding-arm comprising a body portion recessedat its end, and a tip permanently seated in saidrecess and transverselygrooved, the lower wall of said groove forming a bearing for the stoneand the upper wall'being-cupped or hollowed and adapted to be bent overupon the stone.

9. A gem-setting having a hold ing-arm comprising a body portionrecessed'at its end, and a tip permanently seated in said recess andtransversely grooved, the lower wall of said roove forming a bearing forthe stone and the upper wall being cupped or hollowed and adapted to bebent over upon the stone, the outer surface of said tip being convexlyrounded.

CHAS. T. WITTSTEIN. Witnesses:

RUSSELL M. EVERETT, ETHEL B. REED.

